La Moutonne 是一块位于夏布利的特级葡萄园，当我们提到夏布利的7个特级园葡萄园：朗榭（Blanchots）克洛（Les Clos）瓦慕（Valmur）青蛙园（Grenouilles）福迪斯（Vaudesir）普尔斯（Les Preuses） 宝歌（Bougros），同样做为特级园的穆通，被授于了“Chablis Grand Cru”的酒标标注, 虽更引人注目却未列入其中，这不仅与她的历史有关，同时也因此成就了她的与众不同。

2007年后的新酒标设计

La Moutonne, as a special vineyard in Chablis, has several legends. When we talk about the  Grand Cru in Chablis, we would mention Blanchots,Les Clos, Valmur, Grenouilles, Vaudesir, Les Preuses, Bougros.

La Moutonne shares the same status and even more renowned of a Grand Cru though it is not mentioned in the meantime. It is due to the history and by chance attains the difference from the rest.

关于她的传说有很多。神之水滴中提及的人鱼公主，让人联想到了这里曾经是大海。La Moutonne到底有多神奇呢？连一向低调的毕修家族也为她使用了金色酒标的设计，足以体现对于这块葡萄园和其仅有的6000－8000瓶的年产量的珍视。

La Moutonne has an annual prodution of 6000 to 8000 bottles. As an exception of the low profile family style, Bichot family chooses Golden color for the label, in order to emphasis how precious this vineyard is and its prestigious wine.

先来了解穆通园的一些基本参数：

地理位置: 夏布利

Location： Chablis

葡萄园位置: 下图横线

Position： see below photo

面积:2.35公顷

Total size: 2.35 H

葡萄品种:霞多丽

Variety: Chardonnay

土壤：基米里支阶岩

Soil: Kimmeridgian

等级:特级园

Status: Grand Cru

引人关注的悠久历史

Remarkable History of La Moutonne

 穆通园在她1000年的历史岁月中,只有3个主人。拥有穆通近两个世纪直到1791年为止的蓬帝尼修道院。1791年至1972年的长笛家族, 以及从1972年开始至今的阿尔伯特毕修家族。

西多会蓬帝尼修道院的修士们将她命名为 La Moutonne（Moutonne有母山羊之意）因为据说这些修士们曾经开玩笑说“谁要是喝了这个酒之后，就会像只小羊那样跳来跳去。”到了1789年在法国大革命期间，牧师们的土地被充公并拍卖，让·笛，蓬帝尼的长老和他兄弟西蒙，西多会的监管，由于放弃了神职工作，因此使他们能够在1791年3月买下了修道院最好的葡萄园，其中就包括穆通园。长笛庄园也由此诞生。

但是穆通真正开始声名远扬还是要到19世纪，在本杰明·笛的推广下（西蒙的儿子），1824－1869年间，他在贝尔西（位于巴黎）做葡萄酒中间商，他没有子嗣，因此决定过继它的侄子弗朗斯瓦·奥古斯特·长。长笛庄园的名称由此得来。

La Moutonne has only had three owners during its one thousand years of existence: Pontigny Abbey until 1791, the Long-Depaquit family from 1791 to 1972 and the House of Albert Bichot from this date onwards. The Cistercian monks of Pontigny gave La Moutonne its nickname as they used to say that “after drinking this wine, one jumps like a little sheep”. In 1789 during the French Revolution, the clergy’s property was confiscated and sold off. Jean Depaquit, the Abbot of Pontigny, and his brother Simon Depaquit, the Abbey’s procurator, left the clergy, enabling them to buy the best vineyards of the Abbey in March 1791, including the famous Moutonne en Vaudésirs. Domaine Depaquit was born. Moutonne’s notoriety grew further still during the 19th century, under the impetus of Benjamin Depaquit, Simon’s son, who was a wine broker in the Bercy market place from 1824 through to 1869. As he did not have any children he decided to adopta nephew, François Auguste Long, thereby resulting in the estate’s final name:Long-Depaquit. 

位于夏布利的长笛庄园 （Domain Long－Depaquit）

1911年，巴黎法院承认了“La Moutonne”做为葡萄园的历史命名。1945年，她的面积被定为2.35公顷，与特级园普尔斯和福迪斯为邻。为了避免穆通这个特殊的名称被滥用，夏布利的酒农签署了一份联名协议，使得穆通园成为了夏布利的第八个特级园。同时也获得INAO（国家原产地命名管理局）的批准，但是正式的批文从未被刊登。

In 1911 the Court of Appeal in Paris recognised the historic use of the denomination “La Moutonne” in relation to a specific property indicated in the land registry. In 1945 its exact surface area was limited to 2.35 ha, neighbouring the grands crus Preuses and especially Vaudésirs. With the aim of preventing the misuse of the name Moutonne, an agreement was signed between the estate and the Chablis wine growers syndicate.This agreement, making La Moutonne the 8th grand cru, was also ratified by the INAO. But the official decree was never published.

但是INAO已经允许给予这块葡萄园拥有特殊的待遇。目前对于她的认定未经颁布仍有争议。而La Moutonne这个名字本身已经成为一个品牌，做为唯一的一块独立特级园，由阿尔伯特毕修家族拥有。

In conclusion, the INAO has allowed this parcel to benefit from a special status. At present the situation is nolonger ambiguous. The “La Moutonne” brand can only be used by wines produced from the a forementioned parcel, a monopoly of Domaine Long-Depaquit.

基米里支阶岩 Soil of Kimmeridgian marl

特别之处

Why Special？

首先是穆通园的土，这也是夏布利这一地区出名的原因，葡萄园位于基米里支阶岩的上方，岩石中无以计数的牡蛎化石证实了它是远古时期海洋的沉积岩。在穆通园，疏松的粘土石灰岩是优质的葡萄栽培土壤，限制了葡萄疯长和产量，增加了果实的浓度。而土壤也成为了夏布利这一地区的葡萄酒刚烈和矿物质的特色风格的保证。

和其他的特级园的一样，穆通园面朝南，地形的一定弧度使得部分的葡萄园面向东南，加之中间部分略微陡峭的坡度，使穆通园整体气候温度温暖，日照充足，并且不受北风的影响，因此葡萄果实能获得最佳的成熟度，和勃艮第凉爽气候下的更具酸度的果实有所区别。做为独立园，只有长笛庄园才能酿造穆通园的葡萄酒。（其他7个特级庄葡萄园由多家共有，并共同使用其名称）这让穆通园得到了“夏布利的罗曼尼康帝”的称谓。

La Moutonne shares the soils that make Chablis so famous: the vineyard sits at top Kimmeridgian marl that was deposited here by an ancient sea. This is evidencedby the millions of tiny marine fossils, which give the soil a high proportion of limestone. In La Moutonne, the loosely textured clay limestone serves as an excellent base for viticulture, as it helps to limit the vigor and yield .

Like the rest of the Grand Cru hill, La Moutonne faces predominantly south, although a curve of the hill means that some of the vines are oriented more toward the southeast. This, coupled with the relatively steep slopes on this part of the hill, means that La Moutonne has a warm meso climate: efficient sunlight exposure and shelter from northerly winds give grapes optimum ripening conditions that do not come at the expense of acidity in the cool Burgundian climate.As the vineyard is essentially a monopole, only Domaine Long-Depaquit makes a La Moutonne wine. This puts La Moutonne in good company: the Romanee-Conti Grand Cru vineyard responsible for one of the most famous wines in the world is also a monopole of the vines, increasing concentration in the grapes. This soil is often given credit for the steely,mineral characters in Chablis wines, La Moutonne included.

美丽清澈的金色泛着明亮的绿光, 香气有丰满的果肉气息(蜜桃和一丝柑橘类和茉莉及紫罗兰花香). 酸度较低，柔和丰腴的酒体，伴随着少许干果与坚果的香气与海的气息。口感丰富带有明显的矿物质气息,这是源于这里的地质特点形成的小风土. 极为新鲜, 淡雅同时柔和的木香,余味悠长。

搭配美食

和略微炸过的奶油汁鱼类及贝类搭配, 年份老的酒, 配奶油汁农场鸡也非常棒!

侍酒温度

10 -12°C

 Tasting notes

Beautiful Clear Golden-Green robe with very bright reflections. Nose is fleshy fruits (peach, nectarine) with discreet citrus and floral notes (jasmine, violet). Mouth is ample and generous with a verydistinct marly minerality due to the micro-terroir.

Serve between 10-12 C

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